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Sep
30
How to lay blocks and bricks 
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Building with brick and block offers the homeowner and contractor great flexibility. The projects are limitless.
For purposes of this Training Manual, we will cover the basics of laying a brick or block wall. Rarely does a do-it-yourselfer tackle a wall more than 3 or 4 feet high. Any wall higher than this may need steel reinforcement, more in-depth training and a review by an architect or engineer. From this review, you will see the products and tools needed and be able to guide a consumer through a simple project.
Brick And Block Laying Basics
The first step in building a brick or block wall is to construct a solid footing or foundation wall. (See Slab Construction) Be sure to allow the footing or foundation at least two full days to cure before beginning to lay the block or brick. Keep the block or brick moist to reduce the absorption of too much moisture from the mortar.
Good brick and block work starts on a good level foundation. Spacers, plumb lines and levels are used to keep successive courses straight and plumb. The figure below shows how to start building up the corners first, setting the level string lines and filling in toward the center of the wall. The next figures show how to lay the block or brick in the mortar bed.
Mixing The Mortar
SAKRETE® Mortar Mix Type N or S is prepackaged and only needs the addition of water. The amount of water needed is printed on the bag and will produce a nice "fat" plastic mortar. For best results, use a mechanical mortar mixer and mix thoroughly until all material is wet and of a smooth, plastic consistency. A mortar box and hoe can also be used for smaller projects.
Use a mortarboard and a pointed mason's trowel. When the air temperature is between 70° and 80°F, the mixed mortar should be used within 1 hour. When used at temperatures above 80°, mortar will set faster. Adding extra water to the mortar after the initial mixing (this is called retempering) is not recommended as this will reduce strength and can cause shrinkage.
Laying Brick or Block
Apply a full mortar bed on the clean foundation, footing or ledge and carefully place the block or brick into the setting bed.
Trimming off the excess mortar
The consistency and thickness of the mortar must be such that the brick or block does not move out of place or compress the mortar. Lightly tap the block or brick in place using the handle of the trowel. This assures good contact between the block or brick and the mortar.
Build up the corners first, then use the building line to aid in leveling each course. A running bond pattern is most common.
When placing consecutive courses, remove the excess mortar with a quick striking motion of the trowel. Excess mortar is saved and applied to the next head joint of the brick. A jointing tool (curved faced tool) may be used to press the mortar into joints of brick after the excess has been struck off.
The best way to proceed is to place the mortar for the horizontal joints first, then butter each brick or block on one end only to form the vertical or head joint on one side only.
Place the brick or block in the setting bed, tap in place. Butter the end of the next brick and set against the previous one.
Tap in place and so on, being careful to make each block or brick follow the building line as close as possible.
All work starts with the corners. The last brick placed to complete a course is called a "closer." Most often the closer is a full stretcher somewhere in the middle of the course.
Many brick or block patterns, require cutting.
Block walls that are used to support a roof, floor joists, etc., are finished with a sill plate to provide a means to set and anchor the roof or floor joists. The sill plate is also anchored with bolts into the block cells filled with portland cement grout.
The support over windows or other openings is created by a "lintel," a horizontal piece of steel, cast or precast concrete serving to support the masonry above.
For purposes of this Training Manual, we will cover the basics of laying a brick or block wall. Rarely does a do-it-yourselfer tackle a wall more than 3 or 4 feet high. Any wall higher than this may need steel reinforcement, more in-depth training and a review by an architect or engineer. From this review, you will see the products and tools needed and be able to guide a consumer through a simple project.
Brick And Block Laying Basics
The first step in building a brick or block wall is to construct a solid footing or foundation wall. (See Slab Construction) Be sure to allow the footing or foundation at least two full days to cure before beginning to lay the block or brick. Keep the block or brick moist to reduce the absorption of too much moisture from the mortar.
Good brick and block work starts on a good level foundation. Spacers, plumb lines and levels are used to keep successive courses straight and plumb. The figure below shows how to start building up the corners first, setting the level string lines and filling in toward the center of the wall. The next figures show how to lay the block or brick in the mortar bed.
Mixing The Mortar
SAKRETE® Mortar Mix Type N or S is prepackaged and only needs the addition of water. The amount of water needed is printed on the bag and will produce a nice "fat" plastic mortar. For best results, use a mechanical mortar mixer and mix thoroughly until all material is wet and of a smooth, plastic consistency. A mortar box and hoe can also be used for smaller projects.
Use a mortarboard and a pointed mason's trowel. When the air temperature is between 70° and 80°F, the mixed mortar should be used within 1 hour. When used at temperatures above 80°, mortar will set faster. Adding extra water to the mortar after the initial mixing (this is called retempering) is not recommended as this will reduce strength and can cause shrinkage.
Laying Brick or Block
Apply a full mortar bed on the clean foundation, footing or ledge and carefully place the block or brick into the setting bed.
Trimming off the excess mortar
The consistency and thickness of the mortar must be such that the brick or block does not move out of place or compress the mortar. Lightly tap the block or brick in place using the handle of the trowel. This assures good contact between the block or brick and the mortar.
Build up the corners first, then use the building line to aid in leveling each course. A running bond pattern is most common.
When placing consecutive courses, remove the excess mortar with a quick striking motion of the trowel. Excess mortar is saved and applied to the next head joint of the brick. A jointing tool (curved faced tool) may be used to press the mortar into joints of brick after the excess has been struck off.
The best way to proceed is to place the mortar for the horizontal joints first, then butter each brick or block on one end only to form the vertical or head joint on one side only.
Place the brick or block in the setting bed, tap in place. Butter the end of the next brick and set against the previous one.
Tap in place and so on, being careful to make each block or brick follow the building line as close as possible.
All work starts with the corners. The last brick placed to complete a course is called a "closer." Most often the closer is a full stretcher somewhere in the middle of the course.
Many brick or block patterns, require cutting.
Block walls that are used to support a roof, floor joists, etc., are finished with a sill plate to provide a means to set and anchor the roof or floor joists. The sill plate is also anchored with bolts into the block cells filled with portland cement grout.
The support over windows or other openings is created by a "lintel," a horizontal piece of steel, cast or precast concrete serving to support the masonry above.
